God Jul

Before I attempt to describe a Norwegian Christmas to you, you should know that the word Jul, which is translated to meaning Christmas, doesn't just refer to Christmas day, but also to the Christmas time or the Christmas season. People are still greeting each other with a hearty 'God Jul' even though the day has long since passed!

So Lars and I began our Jul by traveling three hours north to his hometown. We arrived in Tynset (a.k.a Winter Wonderland!) around midday on Tuesday the 23rd. And before I knew it I was launched full throttle into Lars and his family's traditions and my first truly white Christmas!

The night of the 23rd we decorated the Christmas tree. Most Norwegian trees have white candle type lights instead of the flashing rainbow lights that I am accustomed to. In general, the Norwegian tree is a lot simpler than the American counterpart. It is also fairly traditional to have small Norwegian flags draped over the tree, which for families like Lars' was probably hand picked and hand cut by a family member (this year, it was Stine!) And how could I forget?--We decorated wearing Santa cowboy hats that Jan had bought at the grocery store as a surprise! There was a heavy handful of jokes that night about how the American Santa Claus MUST wear that kind of hat...I am not sure that anyone believed me when I vehemently denied it! :)

Later that night, we went over to a friend of the family's house. Randi and Jan are close with the parents, and Stine and Lars each have one of their best friends in Halvor and Kristin. We had some good traditional Norwegian food (tacos haha) and drank some gløgg which is typically a warm, so-called mulled wine, spiced with cinnamon, cloves etc. and served with raisins and almonds (our hosts were so nice to drop in some vodka as well!). Later on in the evening, we watched a BBC program that they watch every year called Dinner For One. It was pretty funny, and I could see how watching it year after year after year would make it hilarious. You can see it for yourself here:

The 24th is when the most action happens. Around midday Jan's side of the family (huge) meets at the farm where two uncles are currently living. I was desperately trying to keep up with the extended family and the Norwegian, and both presented quite the challenge. It didn't help at all that the Norwegian they are speaking in Tynset is a bit different from what I have been learning in Hamar...but I did my best, and the family was more than gracious to me. We ate some grøt, also called risgrøt, which is one of my favorite Christmas foods so far. I think it is made with vanilla rice and cooked with milk. Then you get to add as much butter, cinnamon and sugar as you want! Very tasty. And the lucky person that finds the almond in the batch gets a present! Guess who that person was this year?? LARS! Haha. He got a nice big bar of chocolate. After we all had our share of grøt, lots of good conversation, coffee, cakes, and chocolates were passed around.

The reunion was topped off with a great, good-natured fight with Fredrik (my Norwegian version of Riley) and a great view out the window.

Then we headed home. Randi, Stine, Lars and I headed up to the church in Tynset, while Jan stayed home to prepare Christmas Eve dinner. First we walked around and visited graves of loved ones that have passed. Usually they light candles and leave them on the graves, but they forgot to buy the candles this year. The church was nice inside and the service was short and sweet with lots of singing of hymns to keep me entertained. Besides a strange attack of claustrophobia and a serious case of the yawns, church was alright. I think others were probably a bit irritated with the rambunctious children all over the place, but I was grateful that somebody else wanted to get out of there as much as I did! Haha. I think that if I was to do it again I would stay home and help Jan with the food. ;)

Then it was time for Christmas Eve dinner! This year Lars' uncles came over (every other year it is either them or Randi's parents) and we had some GOOD food. Ribbe, or pork ribs, are one example of traditional Norwegian Christmas dinner food. I was thinking a lot about my sister Cori (who doesn't eat any form of pig if she can avoid it) when I bit into piece after piece of the ribbe. The meat is cooked with the skin on, so the skin becomes this crunchy bacon type snack. Yep, I ate a pig's skin Cori. And it was pretty good.

Then we had some more coffee, some more Christmas cakes and foods and of course some sprit (hard alcohol) to go with it. And then, finally---time for the presents! It was a bit strange opening gifts not in my pajamas, and not with a million little ones running around creating havoc and without my Dad puttering around with his silly Christmas hat on sipping champagne and orange juice. . . but it was still a great Christmas. Stine got some new skis, Lars got a promise from his parents that they would buy the rest of his bunad (traditional Norwegian formal wear), and I got what might have been the best present possible from Lars--a pair of Christmas pajamas. For those of you that don't know, my family opens new pj's on Christmas eve and has for as long as I can remember. So basically Lars scored big time on that one. I cried, and missed my family and was happy I had someone that was so thoughtful as Lars in my life. Besides the pj's, I also got some hand-knitted Norwegian mittens from the cat and dog, a new scarf from Stine and a nice quality sporty active shirt from Lars' parents. Lars and I also got some nice stuff for the apartment and a gift certificate to the spa pool in Savalen (ski resort near Lars' house). It was a great night!

The next morning we headed to the neighbor's house (Gjertrud and Vidar) for the traditional Christmas day breakfast (which, by the way, is nothing like what we think of as breakfast--but DELICIOUS). We ate merrily, and then guess what? Ate some more...coffee, chocolates, cheesecake etc. etc. After we stuffed ourselves, we got bundled up for a nice, long walk.

I was the lucky one that got to have Raja attached to me, which would make any walk all the more interesting. It felt so good to get out in the fresh air and stretch my legs. We made it all the way up to the top of a great big hill before we decided it was time to head back. It was such a gorgeous day.

That night we went OUT! We met at a friend' house for a vorspiel first, and had some fun with someone's Christmas present of beer goggles and played some drinking roulette (not the best idea ever, haha). Then we went to one of the few bars in Tynset and had a great time reuniting with old friends. Well at least Lars and Stine reunited, haha. I, on the other hand, had a great time meeting, drinking and dancing with a TON of new people, and enjoyed my buzz enough to speak a lot more Norwegian, a lot better than normal haha.

Then the following day, it was time for more family and more food. Randi's side of the family came over for breakfast. Her side is significantly smaller and easier to keep track of than Jan's side, but just as much fun! I was impressed with the family resemblance between Randi and her brother. All of them were so great to me, and we even went over to their house after breakfast to watch a Manchester United game. I felt really comfortable with them; it was almost like being at home.

So that get-together marked the end of the official family Christmas traditions...although not the end of our adventures during our trip to Tynset! ;) I will have to write more about them later! As for Jul, above all, I was so happy to be included as part of the gang, ... it really made being away from my family during Christmas for the first time at least bearable. And while we ate a lot of different foods and celebrated a bit differently, it was obvious to me that the underlying themes of Christmas and what that means to me and my American comrades seems to be the same in Norway as well.

GOD JUL ALLE SAMMEN!

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Free Fallin' Friday

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Ferdig med skole.

Today was my last day of class for the year. It was pretty obvious school was closing down for the year because the entrance to our school has been converted into a tree lot!

To be honest, I am really excited to have a break. Of course I want to speak and understand Norwegian better, but it has been so exhausting to try and keep up with the students that are so far ahead of me. That is not to say that I haven't been enjoying my classmates--on the contrary! They are really great! And so is our current teacher. His name is Pål and he has stepped in as a vikar for Aud because first she injured her leg, and then she got really sick. He has been really great--a lot more focused than Aud, and he has concentrated a lot more on grammar in combination with culture and discussion. I have benefited a lot from his style. After Christmas however, we will have a brand new teacher and I am a bit anxious about that.

Below you can see our classroom! We had been writing a little diktat (the teacher reads something aloud and you try to write what you hear...much harder than it sounds actually haha). I think it is really cool to see all the different handwriting styles...from Serbia, Iraq, Russia, Burma, Poland, the U.S. etc.

Unfortunately I have nothing good to report on the work permit front. I tried to call a number they had mailed me, but it didn't work. I emailed them and too many days later they got back to me with a generic email that basically regurgitates the unhelpful information they have on their website:

We refer to your enquiry dated 12.12.2008.The case is being processed in the Norwegian Directorate of Immigration.The processing times are being updated regularly, and therefore they may change. The estimated case processing time for applications for work permit is currently 2 months from when the application has been registered. This application was registered 04.11.2008.The estimated case processing time also covers the case processing time that other agencies/public bodies (such as the police, the labour market agency and others) use on the case. Many cases will be processed faster than indicated, while some cases will have longer processing times. This may apply in cases where the application has insufficient information, when there is a need for document verification, or further investigations.As soon as the case has been processed, we will send the decision to the police who will then inform you.

So I guess I just wait. The strange this is that the police station told me it would take a month. Hmm. But at this rate, two months isn't too far away anyway.

Oh yeah, and to put the cherry on top of the whirlwind sundae, Lars and I have been without a washing machine for about a month. We actually bought new underwear and socks to get us by, and I also washed some by hand. BUT, today it finally got fixed! Hallelujah! Even if I am going to get kicked out of the country, at least I am going to leave with fresh panties and a clean shirt on my back!

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Jeg savner...

After being in Norway for almost 3 months, I think I am allowed to assess if I am missing things or not. The general consensus is that I am only really missing people--family and close friends. It is strange being away not just during the holidays, but also at a time when so many big changes are happening in my family and circle of close friends. My brother bought a house, and is getting married this summer. My nieces and nephews are growing like weeds, my sister is looking for a new house, my other sister is completely re-building hers and my grandma is not getting any younger. Friends are moving away, graduating, entering grad school, getting new jobs and traveling around the world. And I am somewhere completely and totally different...so yes, the only thing I really feel like I miss are the people. But some other less important (and more superficial) things still make the list...

-§- Getting a paycheck -§-

I have been working quite a bit, but not seeing any fruits of that labor. To date, I have worked over 150 hours and I have a kick ass week ahead of me. This means that when this year is all said and done, I will probably have earned $3,000 and not seen a penny of it. Grrr.

-§- Driving -§-

Don't get me wrong, I love that I live close enough to school and work so that I don't have to drive. But there is something that feels really good about knowing you have a car to hop into if you want to go somewhere that is a bit out of range for your own two feet.

-§- Drinks -§-

As much as I hate the fact that I really love "bitch beers" and that I can't stand a regular beer, it really doesn't change the fact that I love a cold, Mike's hard berry. Or lemonade. Or lime. Or cranberry lemonade. You get the point.

Oregon Chai! Mmm mmm...man I miss Oregon's take on chai. I have never found a chai that can truly compete elsewhere.

-§- My favorite soap -§-

While it is definitely something I can live without, I love this fresh, green bar of soap. Strange the things we become attached to...luckily I have a tube of Pepsodent with me so my teeth are satisfied. ;)

-§- Kayaking -§-

I wish that I could still drive down to Indianola and hop into one of Steve's kayaks. Hopefully this summer I can get in some kayaking action Norwegian style! :)

-§- Some foods -§-

Like cereal, for example. Norway has cereal, don't get confused. They just don't have the ridiculous selection that I have become accustomed to...you know there is an entire aisle dedicated to cereal in the U.S.!

And of course...CANDY. I have a huge sweet tooth, we all know that. And I have found lots of delicious treats here in Norway as well. But that doesn't keep me from missing the delicious combination of chocolate and peanut butter that Americans seem to enjoy a bit more than Norwegians.

The thing that is a real pain is that I know that I could make a similar list of things that I miss from my months in Spain (sangria, botellon, tinto de verano, chucherias, El Alhambra, El mirador de San Nicolas, Granada10, and Cacao to name a few). And I know that it would be just as easy to create a list of things that I miss from my life in Norway if I were to go somewhere else (with Lars being a big fat number one at the top of that list!).

It's amazing how much living in another country can make you analyze your previous experiences. I am proud of how I am really examining my life on a deep, intellectual level. Let's be honest--what is more important than candy, cereal and bar soap? ;)

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Worry Warts

Generally I think I am a pretty healthy worrier. I worry when it is productive; I find it helpful to worry when it makes you get things done, prepares you better for a test or propels you to ask the right questions. I would even say that I tend to not be cautious enough at times, as countless friends of mine and family members find me to lean a bit too much on the trusting side, or the forgiving side.

But to be honest, I like that about myself. I like that my free time is not consumed by worries, grief and stress. I like that my first reaction is to trust someone and accept them rather than assume they are out to get me. I like that the majority of the time I am propelled by my instincts and not so much by a systematic analysis of a given situation. I am not sure if this is something I have learned or if it is something that was already instilled in me, but over all, I am really happy with the lack of fretting that goes on in my life. Que será, será.

But this work permit situation seems to be getting the best of me. I feel like the longer I wait to hear from Utlendingsdirektoratet (UDI), or The Norwegian Directorate of Immigration, the more worried I become about the result of my work application results. There are a few things in particular that really worry me:

1. There is this nasty little paragraph on the UDI website that explicitly says that those that are looking to work in Norway that are NOT members of the EU or of EU affiliated countries, have to apply to the Norwegian consulate within their country of origin first. Lars clued me into this before I left the States, but I thought that it was best to apply that way--that it was recommended, not obligatory. And honestly, I would have had to go to San Francisco which wasn't really in the pre-moving across the world budget, if you know what I mean.

2. There is another, and almost equally as nasty snippet, that details that workers from outside the EU will only be employed if they are bringing something to the table that no one else is offering. It basically implies that unless you have some kind of unique trade or intellectual skill, there is no need for UDI to grant you a work permit. Do we think working in a cafe with minimal Norwegian skills meets these requirements? Hmmm....maybe in my dreams.

3. I have already been working, and quite a bit actually. I need the money from all these hours that I have earned! I have probably earned almost $4,000 so far and haven't seen one penny. And next week I am scheduled to work 5 days, and will most likely be working 6! Don't get me wrong--so far so great with this job--but how the heck am I going to get paid if my application gets denied? I am sure that I will be able to work something out, but here it is just the unknown that is feeling heavy on my shoulders. And my boss has also been asking me when I expect to hear something because he also needs the permit to go through so he can properly pay taxes.

Blegh. There are a lot of things that I am anxious about. Everyday I am checking the mailbox like a fool hoping and hoping and hoping that there will be some news in there to settle my mind.
I really got my hopes up the other day when I saw an official envelope with my name on it!

But guess who it was from? My loan collector! Ain't that a bitch?

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Snart kommer JUL!

I think winter has officially hit Hamar. We are now accustomed to about a foot of snow around the place, and I am sure that there is only more to come. Today in class we deviated from our discussion of Norway's immigration history to a light-hearted break down of the norsk snow-speak. Similar to Alaskan Eskimos, the Norwegian language has more words for snow than we native English speakers can really fathom. A few examples are snø, sne, sny, pudder, sludd, slaps, fjon, skare, fjukr haglkorn, and eiter. I am sure there are many more, that they vary from region to region, and even from generation to generation.

But what I expect to be the same around the whole country, is a bit of a lifestyle change once the first snow falls (and sticks around). The more reasonable women trade in their stilleto boots for their clunkier winter ones, cars are adorned with winter tires and take twice as long to get out of their parking spots and kids enjoy walking anywhere a little bit more. It has been eye-opening for me to see people walking around town pushing a spark carrying groceries, their belongings or even themselves! You can see an example of a spark above...the handle that the purse is hanging from is where you push, and if you feel so inclined, you can hop onto the back for a bit of a ride! And, the biggest spark in Norway (and in the world!) is in Tynset!


I am really looking forward to my first, true white Christmas! Lars and I put up a mini Christmas tree on Sunday night, and last night we toasted our frozen three-cheese pizza (mm mmm) with some Julebrus. The drink is similar to other soft drinks, but according to Lars you are only allowed to drink it after the 1st of December. :) It has a nice festive label on the bottle, as you can see to the left (and our tree in the background!!). I have heard that Julebrus started as a Christmas drink for minors, who aren't allowed (legally) to enjoy juleøl, or Christmas beer. I have to say that I personally am very happy to have a tasty alternative to beer (nope, still don't like it). It will be really nice to have something traditional to drink down when I refuse the many beer offers! It can get really exhausting saying 'Nei, takk' all the time!

Then again, I guess I can always turn to Aquavit if I need some festive comfort. ;)

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Tyskland

Ok, here comes the who, what, where, why and how of our recent trip to Germany. First, here are some important characters in my Norsk life that you should get familiar with...


Randi. Lars and Stine's mom. Has treated me like family since day one, makes great food and is a wonderful host in Tynset. It is obvious that family is important to her. . . doesn't like spicy foods, loves the color blue. She has been so gracious with me, speaking English, making me feel included and giving me hugs once in awhile. :)




Jan Kristian. Lars and Stine's dad. Reminds me so much of my dad, loves hunting, is a carpenter for a living, and will always be young at heart. A mischievous guy, he really makes me smile a lot. My perspective on JK is that he is really hard-working, but knows how to let loose when the opportunity presents itself. This can include, for example, drinking jagermeister in the van on the way to Osnabruck with Vidar, and passing the bottle around the car. So much like my dad, hehe.



Gjertrud. Lars' cousin according to the family tree, but more like an aunt figure. JK is her biological uncle. Neighbors to the Kindølshaugs, and the best hair dresser in Tynset. Incredibly generous with her time, all in all a great lady, full of laughs and jokes, very patient with my Norwegian, afraid of flying.




Vidar. Haha, I love this guy. Gjertrud's husband, and a jokester. Biological father to two of Gjertrud's children, but let's be honest, father to all three. Fun-loving guy, makes potato chips with the famous Tynset mandelpotat. Looking for a third flavor if you have any ideas. ;)



Stine. Lars' sister, and a complete joy. 22 years old, born and raised in Tynset. Has lived in Brasil, and now lives in Osnabruck, Germany. Speaks English, Norwegian and has recently acquired German. Loves her family to death, sometimes gets her left and right confused. Has played handball. Also, short.




Milan. Stine's boyfriend. Just turned 20, was born in Germany but moved to Cabo Frio, Brasil when he was 10. Surfer, guitar-player and student as of now at Osnabruck University. Speaks German and Portuguese fluently, and can also do some damage in English, and Norwegian. Also, tall.
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So now that we have the who straightened out, we can move on to the rest. The what was just spending quality family time together, and the where was obviously in Germany, and specifically in Osnabrück, Germany. The how is the important and interesting part...and interestingly enough it involves lots of food, drink and laughs!

On Sunday, Lars' parents and Gjerturd and Vidar drove down to check out our apartment. We had some coffee, some lefse and some kringla before we started our journey to Germany. When we arrived in Osnabrück, Stine and Milan met us at the hotel. It was so great to finally meet them! It was natural spending time with everyone from the get-go...and we found some Chinese food and ate and talked and ate and talked.

The next morning we were looking forward to meeting Milan's grandparents, Oma and Opa. They take ridiculously good care of the two of them, and they showed us the same care and affection, showering us with cakes and coffees and schnapps. I was a bit anxious about this meeting since Oma and Opa don't speak English, and none of us besides Stine and Milan can manage much German. But it wasn't awkward in the least. Apparently language barriers are not a problem for Randi at all, as she was communicating effortlessly with our hosts.

The rest of the trip all seems to blur together...lots of food, laughs, shops, Christmas market, drinks, some more laughs and some more shops. Osnabrück is a great city, and it was a great place to ring in the holidays. Everything was so festive, with lights, Christmas trees, street performers, great smells and foods surrounding us for the three days.


We spent hours walking around the Weinachtsmarkt, or the Christmas Market, checking out the crafts, bratwursts, glühwein, pastries, and the German people.

It was absolutely a great vacation (way too many stories to share!), and now I am looking forward to Christmas more than ever!

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